Contact Us

Use the form on the right to contact January Scent.

250 Esten Avenue
Pawtucket, RI
United States

Independent artisan made perfumes.

LeafMiami.jpg

Blog

January Scent Project thoughts and musings.

 

In Conversation with Medieval Chinese Literature Scholar Baoli Yang: Borders, China, and Cultural Exchange

John Biebel

As part of my investigation while making a limited edition fragrance Chéngmén, I was fortunate to have a conversation with PhD candidate Baoli Yang of Brown University who is completing her work there in Comparative Literature with a focus on Medieval Chinese Literature. Baoli holds a B.A. from Beijing Normal University, an M.A. from Dartmouth College and has lectured at M.I.T. Her perspectives on cultural exchange between China and the US provided some fascinating insights into our perceptions of each other at a time when the world can seem extremely small, yet there are still gaps in our mutual understanding. Here is the conversation between Baoli and I - I hope that you find it as interesting as it was for me to speak with her. 

Baoli Yang (top) John Biebel (lower) in conversation

John Biebel: Hello Baoli, can you tell me about your area of study?

Baoli Yang: My PhD will be in Comparative Literature with a focus on Medieval Chinese Literature.

JB: When you mention Medieval Chinese literature - my idea of Medieval is usually the idea of European Medieval, and is that roughly the same period in China as well? Does it reflect the same dates in China as well?

BY: Uhm, I don’t think so because China has a longer regional history, so we date that back to about 3,000 years ago. So we define Medieval Chinese Literature as the texts written between 200 BC to 1,000 AD. So it’s about 1,200 years old.

JB: That’s a very long time, and that’s a very different period of time [than European Medieval]. What drew you to that period of writing?

BY: I was born in a small town in northwestern China, and the town was famous for its cultural heritage. The town was not the most famous place in China, but when I was younger, I often thought about going out, because going out meant embracing something more modern, to understand the world in a new way. I wanted to go to places like Beijing, Shanghai, New York, L.A., and when I actually went there, I really got a cultural shock, like in Beijing, I understood how power works, in the capital of China. And after several years when I got to the US, I realized “Oh, this is the center of capitalism, and this sets the trend of the world that I’m in now…” and I felt alienated from this capitalist, modern, commercialized culture. 

For a long while I didn’t know what I should study. Then I thought about my background, and I wanted to know what my cultural root meant to me. So that’s why I want to understand why the province of my city has such an important role in Medieval Chinese culture rather than in modern culture or world culture. That’s why I am interested in working on past historical periods.

JB: Interesting, and I completely understand. In a way, you could almost say that by searching things out, other things, it sort of made you reflect back on where you came from originally.

BY: Yes! Currently I feel this, and I thought that you making films and perfume, painting make you realize who you are. Just as I work on Medieval Chinese Literature makes me realize who I am. 

JB: That’s so fascinating. Something I’m curious about: I have a friend, he makes fragrances, and he was, you may know this, it’s a fairly famous Chinese poem about a scholar who is having a conversation with the moon - Li Bai

BY: Drinking Alone Under the Moon 

JB: Yes, “Drinking Alone Under the Moon” - right. And he told me about this poem and how he wanted to make a perfume about this state of mind, about this man sitting alone, but he’s sort of talking to the moon, and thinking about his friends and all of that. And what I found so interesting when I read the poem (and of course I have to read it in translation, and it’s hard to translate some of it) the sentiment of it was very modern - a very modern, sophisticated kind of thinking…

BY: Oh really? Because I was trained to read it in a classical way, but I never thought how a modernist would find it interesting.

JB: Yes, it struck me as very modern. The idea of drinking by yourself is, you know, there’s something sad about it because you’d rather be with other people. But then sometimes that’s all you have, so there’s something - how can I say it? There’s something not idyllic about it, but rather very realistic about it. There’s something very modern about it. It also reflects the idea of getting older, and how your friends are not always there any more. I was thinking of certain friends of mine - I saw certain friends of mine in that poem. It really struck me as very interesting. It’s a very old poem, isn’t it?

BY: Yes, Li Bai is a very old guy!

JB: Yeah! I thought about that when I was reading about your background and what you study. I was very curious, are there any particular themes in Medieval Chinese Literature that really strike you that are very interesting? Is it just a reflection of life like modern literature, or are there specific things that really interest you a lot?

BY: Currently my research is about the conceptualization of borders or frontiers within Medieval Chinese literature, so when they tell you about how we do boundary making or border crossing, so we learn about how to understand ourselves or others. This is the current focus of my research.

JB: And in your research within this area of borders and boundaries, I’d love to hear more about that. What are you finding? That’s such an interesting topic, because in some ways, they’re very rigid, but they’re completely artificial, very man made constructions, but then sometimes the landscape can dictate a boundary. Anything particularly notable that you’ve found that you can tell me about?

BY: I’ve found that in American culture right now, the world considers the US the best of the capitalist models; I saw a lot of American shops and restaurants and brands in China, so the boundary between American culture and Chinese culture somehow is blurred there. In Medieval Chinese culture, I found a similar case. At that time, it wasn’t the US, but Tang China (Tang is a dynasty in Chinese dynastic history.) Tang China exported a lot of cultural elements to Japan, Korea and Vietnam at that time, so Tang China has a lot of imposing cultural elements in those states, also other states too. In many ways, Tang China was an empire. So I want to understand how this kind of cultural imposition took place and how the recipient states established their sense of self and others when they received foreign cultures like the Tang.

JB: That’s so interesting. That whole question you bring up, for many of us in the US, (and I can’t speak for everyone in the US, but) we learn about certain parts of China and of Asia and certain periods, but for instance, the phenomenon you talked about of the Tang exporting cultural elements, we get some information about how some parts of Asia had cultural dominance over others, but it’s not always for us to understand how that happened, or how it expressed itself, or what pressures pushed that, or how it affected language or culture, you know? I’m sure some of these things took place over hundreds of years. I know that linguistically the Chinese had a big impact on many other languages, right?

BY: Especially in East Asia. That’s why we consider East Asia as a cultural entity - because it has a holistic Confuscian ideology based on Chinese thinking, some people call it the chopstick-sphere, because everybody’s influenced by how Chinese eat. So for example you’ll only find chopsticks in East Asian restaurants in the US, this is a relic of that influence.

JB: One thing I’ve heard, and I’ve read a lot about this very strong focus on academics in Beijing, and how there was this very strong bureaucratic system for a long time, and how very few people could ever break into it. Was that also true in the larger empire that China had its hands on? Was it true where everyone from far and wide had to go to Beijing and only a few people could be a part of that experience?

BY: Yes. In modern times, the situation has improved because we have the college entrance examination like the SAT; it improves one's chances of entering good schools like Harvard, MIT, Stanford in the US. Nowadays, smart kids can do that in China as well, they can enter good schools like Peking University, Shanghai University, Fudan University. However, the aristocrats always had the highest position and they will try to make the empire as meritocratic as possible by using the Imperial Service Examination System (it’s very similar to the SAT) but only the rich kids can afford tutors, and they have information about what’s going on with the examinations. It’s very rare for really, really poor students at that time to get at the top of the power hierarchy. So the situation improved after 1911 but now it’s getting worse because we have very stiff stratification of the social levels right now.

JB: So that part is interesting. From my perspective from what I know from the revolution in the 40s, 50s, that seemed at the time was an attempt to stratify and create a level playing field in society, but it seems like it sort of returned to more of an economic hierarchy - is that true?

BY: During the Cultural Revolution, we tried to make everybody equal, but after ten years we realized it’s not possible, and then we went back to the market economy and tried to use the college entrance examination exams again. It’s not easy, especially for poor kids.

JB: I’m really curious about your coming to the United States to study. I’m very much in awe of people who work and study in one native language, and then they work and study in a completely different language - it’s very hard to do and has so many challenges, but also gives you such an interesting perspective. For a while I was teaching ESL when I was living in London and I was so interested to hear these stories from people who left one life where it was and picked up another life to work and live in a completely different context. Can you tell me some of your perceptions of that process of coming to another place, speaking a different language, learning new things, but also studying something from your home country but in a new language context?

BY: It was not easy. Even though it sounds very exciting, you’re accepting a new environment and you’re exposed to all kinds of new stuff, however, it’s not easy especially if I’m trying to work with English. In terms of Chinese language, I have no difficulty, but when I first studied in an American class, I couldn’t understand any words. And it was not a normal university, I came here as a visiting fellow at Harvard University, so I really, really didn’t understand what the professor was talking about. It was a Gilgamesh class. I stayed in Harvard’s library all night, looking up all the words in the Gilgamesh text, I looked up every word and still don’t understand what it’s about [laughter]. 

So, it was definitely a struggle. I jumped from a non-English environment to a sophisticated English environment. I felt so desperate. But I was fortunate enough because my husband suddenly appeared. At that time, he was just a boyfriend, but he became my husband, and he’s a native speaker. He tried to help a little bit but it took me a long, long time to get used to academic writing and sophisticated English. Even though I still have an accent, I’m still trying to get used to the academic environment. I feel a strong rupture of my life, my personal life and my professional life by moving from China to the US.

JB: Well, I’m not an academic, I’m primarily a creative type - 

BY: Lucky you!

[laughter]

JB: But academic English is very difficult! It tends to be very “coded” - it has its own code within it. It’s hard - even for native English speakers it’s hard!

BY: Wow - sweet words!

JB: So give yourself credit for understanding academic English. So something I’m particularly interested in, culturally in this day and age, our world is getting a lot smaller…

BY: I agree

JB: I think that can be very wonderful but it also has some problems, where we almost can feel as if we can just take a jump and suddenly we’re in a different culture and then jump out again, and I don’t know if it’s that easy. You know the way you’ll see people on Instagram who will suddenly take a plane and go somewhere and say “Oh I’m in this culture and I love it!” but they don’t get to understand something deeply. But at the same time, we do have access to people and places like we never had before. What do you feel about the general idea of cultural exchange between two different entities? How do we best engage each other from different parts of the world in a way that’s helpful, formative, positive? I also see cases where some cultures run into walls where they don’t really understand each other very well. I’m curious if you have some thoughts about that because You’ve lived a good portion of your life in two very different cultures.

BY: I think perhaps we should first accept and respect differences, and try to learn from each other’s differences. And then I think we can’t really ignore the power hierarchy. If you consider the economic power in the US and economic power in China, we may understand why sometimes people consider Americans are rich and Chinese are poor; and Chinese have less say in terms of international affairs. So when we consider international relationships or cultural exchange, this cultural hierarchy is always an undercurrent and a force. I think the more cultural exchange, the better. Then we understand each other and try to incorporate differences toward cultural enrichment. Nowadays, the Chinese government has banned so many global websites and their usage in China, it just makes Chinese people dumber, it won’t help. 

JB: Right - I’ve often thought on the topic of something like free speech, this has come up in a couple of different contexts now; free speech can be difficult because we hear things that are hard to hear but I don’t think we should punish negative things with more rules against free speech. In other words we should try to open it up as much as we can. Of course that means it’s going to let in difficult things, but - I’m more worried about limiting speech than having to occasionally listen to things that I don’t like.

BY: I’m so happy that a lot of Americans are open minded, they really don’t believe the media propaganda. I find that American media is so, so confusing! Sometimes, for example, about a week ago, the Harvard, MIT and UPenn presidents went to the hearing in DC and they said some things that might be appropriate for legal terms but not appropriate for that occasion, and it was such a big mess I was so surprised. I really hope the media can get more detail about a situation rather than say “Oh, she didn’t say no to speech about genocide, then she must resign,” I feel it was a little simplistic, isn’t it? I’m just an outsider, I don’t know a lot about American culture, it’s just my opinion.

JB: I agree; I’ve spoken to a lot of friends and colleagues who agree that sometimes the media (and social media is part of it too) has trouble with subtle or nuanced thoughts; they have a very hard time reporting things like this. Whereas it just takes a couple of paragraphs or a longer quote or more context to give the full explanation of something in order for us to get the full story. It’s interesting because I wonder if some of our cultural differences (looking back to the US and China) often has to do with us not having a deeper understanding of that longer conversation between the two? 

There was something you said to me that I wanted to ask you about - so, you mentioned the importance of more conversations and cultural exchanges. There’s something that’s of interest to me… I’ve noticed that as I’ve gotten older, I’ve had certain perceptions of what life in China is like, what Chinese culture is like based a lot on what I would read and see and from the people I would meet. I’ve been very fortunate to have some Chinese friends, some roommates from China, from different parts of China, different ages, and I’ve noticed I’ve gotten very different perspectives from them, particularly based on their age. I’ve often found that some of my ideas from when I’m much younger have to be revised a lot because they’re very filtered or American-filtered ideas that are probably fifty years out of date. But it did make me think about how the US has so many immigrant populations here and we tend to have a cultural memory that’s a little bit old, right? Because it’s based on a few decades before when someone might have immigrated. What do you think people in the US don’t really understand about modern China?

BY: Perhaps they haven’t really taken any courses about modern China because I have my knowledge, because I got systematic training in modern Chinese literature, modern history, but a lot of people, they don’t feel the necessity for this, and you don’t take such courses. It’s totally fine and acceptable, but in terms of understanding a culture, perhaps we shouldn’t only be a tourist, to just go there to have a few good times and then come back and feel “I fully understand American culture, I fully understand Canadian culture” - I think that’s a need. So, if we really hope to appreciate another culture we need to invest our time and energy into it.

JB: Yes, definitely. So we really should commit to learning more about another culture. Along with that thinking, I would love to hear more about some of the themes that you encounter in your studies. I have so many questions - do you find that the people you come across in Medieval Chinese literature are mirrors to ourselves today, are they vastly different? What really strikes you from what you’ve read along the way?

BY: One theme that really interests me is this notion of young men wanting to leave their studies and join the Emperor on the frontier. It’s funny because in these cases, these men probably never left their classroom and were only dreaming about such things. But this was very adventurous, this idea of a frontier. Do you know of something similar, John? There doesn’t seem to be something like that now…

JB: Mmm, about fifty years ago or more, there was a lot of this theme in one of my favorite cultural areas, which is radio. There were tons of radio programs about westward expansion, the border at Mexico, “the old west”, etc. You will still see some remnants of these themes today, but it has generally moved further north, and tends to be more about people against the wilderness, the elements. Men and women in northern Canada, Alaska. But it sounds as if this theme really is still alive and well, from Medieval China to now.

As you know, I’ve been working on perfume as one of my areas of creative expression, and so I’m very interested in the world of smell, and what thoughts and memories are evoked by it. Have you come across any notable mentions of smell-related content in your work?

BY: Yes, there are a few. There is a passage in the literature that describes the smells of flowers as they are found in nature. Another one that I recall is a passage where foul smells are associated with corruption.

JB: Oh really?

BY: Yes, it’s a description of a group of corrupt men, and they are linked with the smell of alcohol, women; many other smells of decay. They are “bad” men and they are portrayed with foul smells.

JB: What are some smell memories that you have yourself, something perhaps from your childhood?

BY: I remember the smell of medicinal alcohol. I grew up very close to a hospital, so this smell was around a lot. My mother used to clean with alcohol; I remember her cleaning the bathroom mirror with alcohol. To me, this smell is the smell of cleanliness. As for smells such as perfume, we didn’t have such things around because it was too expensive.

JB: Ah, this is interesting, that smell of alcohol. I’m also interested in what you said about the smell of cleanliness. In the US, many cleaning products here, particularly those used for cleaning public bathrooms, use ingredients that aren’t very expensive, and the smell of orange blossom is fairly inexpensive to make. It’s probably random, but that became our default “clean” smell here. In Europe, it’s (mostly) lemon. But that’s often why you don’t smell a lot of orange blossom perfumes in the US.

BY: This is so interesting! What sort of smell associations do you have like this?

JB: I was just thinking the other day about the smell of toothpaste, and how, for most of my years growing up, you were only able to buy toothpaste that was flavored with mint (or something like mint). So I’ve always associated mint with teeth and brushing. It’s different now, there are many new scents and flavors available, but I still think that they don’t quite feel as “clean” if it’s not minty.

[Laughter]

BY: Yes, I can see how cultures have smells that are associated with them. For me, for example, I always associate Japan with the smell of peach. There are so many drinks in Japan that are flavored with peach, and that smell is linked to me visiting there. I suppose many people make the association of smell with China and tea…

JB: Yes, tea and also certain flowers; osmanthus, and maybe perhaps peony as well?

[we have some translation of flower names]

BY: Ah yes, this is true for both of these flowers. With tea, does this smell become too bitter for something like perfume?

JB: It’s a great question, because I do think that tea can be too bitter of a smell if it were used too strongly. Using natural oils from tea leaves is also very expensive, you need a lot of leaves to get a small amount of oil. There are a number available; jasmine tea, pu erh, white tea, each with a slightly different profile. But it’s becoming a much more popular note in fragrances. Speaking of that, I’d like to return to China for a minute. You might have read on my site that I have been reading some of the work by Wenfu Lu.

BY: Yes, this is a very good place to enter into Chinese writing. He wrote a lot about food, about cuisine - so he writes from a very happy place, a beneficial place. He wrote a lot about the feelings that people have that come from their memories of food. I feel like he would be a great person to sit down to have a conversation with.

JB: I agree! I also really liked his story about returning to his hometown in Suzhou, and how it seemed different from when he was there as a very young man. On that note, looking back, I’d like to close with some thoughts you might have about how your study and your work impacts your thinking today - what do you bring with you from your studies?

BY: Borders and boundaries are important because they help us have a sense of ourselves. But these boundaries need to be porous and flexible. They can’t be walls. They need to move and change along with culture so that they are still helpful in some way. 

JB: And how does this relate to cultural exchange?

BY: This is a global world now, I say the more sharing and greater exchange, the better.

The Evolution of Chéngmén: A New Limited Edition Perfume for 2023

John Biebel

The first germinating seed of the limited edition fragrance Chéngmén is probably a set of memories I have from the years that I spent living in New York, quite close to Chinatown. I’d often pass through there on my way to college classes (particularly in the years when I was living in the financial district.) There were any number of stores that sold various botanical goods, usually pharmacies and apothecaries, and the items they carried would range from chrysanthemum flowers to powdered deer antler. Along with their associated smells were the other smells of preserved fruits (like salted plums and olives). Parallel to these scents was a notion that the lines between what was food and what was medicine were far less distinct than they might be elsewhere.

Chengmen Bottle Label, with Chinese text on brown and taupe background.

Often when I am composing perfumes, I begin with a small idea, or a few ingredients that I’ve grouped together, and as I work, an idea emerges from out of the center of this endeavor. (It’s rarer to begin with a fully formed idea that is then simply executed intact.) With my latest project, I decided to work with oud, and I spent a lot of the late summer smelling different kinds of rare oud from a few countries in southeast Asia. Together, they became a central circle around which other circles joined or intersected. These other circles were formed from other ingredients, and soon a triad arose: oud accord, red champaca flower accord, and orris-ambergris-olive accord (or, as I sometimes referred to it, the “fatty” accord, since it was so substantial and buttery.) As these smells joined, my recollections of the smells from Chinese apothecaries from a lifetime of visits came back to me and the core idea took shape. 

Some of our ideas are vast, and stretch across a horizon. Others start at one edge and wash to one side. Still others are microcosms, such as the evolving perfume Chéngmén. It emerged as a world within a world. As I explored linguistic matches for what was happening within the perfume, the notion of a somewhat closed world, or a city that was fortified (closed within a gate) reverberated, along with the writings of modern Chinese author Wenfu Lu, whose work I’d read about 10 years previously. In his story “World of Dreams, a Valediction” (1983) he wanders in his thoughts and words through memories and the streets of Suzhou. Revisiting his work was like picking up loose threads and weaving them into something taught and supple.

“I would brush past those stone pillars as I entered the lane and stopped before one of the doors. A bamboo plaque was nailed to it, and the door was never closed. In the entryway an old tailor-cum-watchman would do his business, watching the entrance in return for a reduced rent. Or there would be an old woman in glasses, half-blind and bent over an embroidery frame full of dragons, phoenixes and bright butterflies. She would be one of those seamstresses who spent their whole lives making bridal clothes for others. Even though her eyesight was going, when wearing glasses she could still split the coloured silken threads into eight strands. Down the entryways of this kind there were often six-leaved doors, some cream-coloured, some with gold-leaf on a dark-blue ground, but here the gold had turned black in uneven blotches. Only the first panel of the door would be open so that it was impossible to see at one glance what went on within. I might slide inside but still could not see very much on entering, coming instead into a dark, dim world, a seemingly endless corridor.” - Wenfu Lu


Wenfu Lu’s world unfolds like a slow ride on a bicycle, where bits of one tightly packed neighborhood blur into another, held together by the threading sounds that linger and fade out as a turn is made down one narrow lane. Even time fades in and out of focus as he recollects vignettes of water taxis, vegetables carried from river vendors to houses along the city walls, and timeless reflections of moonlight over water under a bridge. And at other times, his memories of the densely-built Suzhou are less idyllic:


“I once lived in another kind of lane with high surrounding walls on either side, so high that one had to crane to see the top; no pink apricot could reach over these walls, and only the spring vines were able to climb up and hang down in tassels from the top. The heavy main gates were always tightly shut so that not a morsel of intimacy could squeeze out. Two mounting blocks like strange beasts lay on either side of the gates, glowering at the screen wall opposite, sombre and fierce. The screen wall had a carved stone border and a plain centre. There were few passers-by in lanes such as these, but occasionally a flower-seller would utter the long drawn-out cry: ‘Who will buy my white orchids?’ For the rest, there were only the sparrows cheeping and chattering on the gatehouse and the magpies hopping on and off the eaved walls.”


When the perfume was coming into its completion, I was thinking of a way to express some of the smaller stories that were evolving along the way, and I thought visually of the very arresting and fascinating visualizations that Alison Goldfrapp was using for her music alongside her album The Love Invention (2023). They are a mixture of AI video and AI/Visualizers; that layering of thousands of algorithmically generated images with motion was exactly the kind of dream-thinking that was parallel to the smell of Chéngmén and the “story” of it as well.

Promotional film, AI animation: Chéngmén, film by Gijs Eggink, music by John Biebel.

Creating perfumes isn’t a linear process - there isn’t a distinct beginning or an end, and in this way, trying to ascertain a “message” is never the point for me. Perfume is a passage, it’s a small portion of a dream. Perhaps even more importantly, it’s making something from (almost) nothing - a composition that is lifeless that has some essence breathed into it through the use of imagination. When Wenfu Lu imagined the Suzhou of his younger years, was it the same? Had he grown used to the way it’d changed over the years? He’d seen governments come and go, his own writing had been subject to severe scrutiny over the years. His work persists. 


“At night the teahouses became resorts of storytellers, and then the strumming of pipas was accompanied by the soft lilt of the Suzhou dialect. Suzhou-style storytelling and ballad-singing were high-pitched and beautiful, while the vending cry of those selling spiced tea-flavoured eggs was filled with sadness. I had not realized that a small winding lane could change so infinitely, be so different within and without, with its rows of houses dividing land and water, silence and movement. On one side was the world with all its joys, sorrows and hubbub. On the other side were waves and moonlight, and also that low, reverberating sound of an evening Buddhist bell, making it seem as if the world could be forgotten.”


城門

Primary Accords and Notes:

Top Notes: Lemon, bergamot, aldehydes, fruit notes

Middle Notes: Red champaca flower, lily of the valley accord, mimosa, olive absolute, white pepper, coleus root

Base Notes: Aged Thai oud, Cambodian oud, Vietnamese oud, orris root, costus root, flouve absolute, cypriol, vanilla, spikenard, sandalwood absolute, benzoin, musk

Chéngmén limited edition giclée print on Arches paper, 11 x 15 inches, edition of 25.
Signed by artist John Biebel

Chéngmén is a limited edition of 75 perfumes, 50ml each ($250 USD), with an accompanying brochure. A limited edition, signed giclée print designed by John Biebel is also available ($50 USD).

Gümüş - Limited Edition Perfume available December, 2022

John Biebel

This December, January Scent Project is releasing a limited edition fragrance, Gümüş. It is an amber-rose chypre perfume extrait created from newly harvested and antique essential oils and natural castoreum tincture (it is not vegan.) The notes are:

Top: Cream-Aldehyde accord, Antique Bergamot, Orange

Middle: Bulgarian Rose, Chinese Rose, Thyme, Myrrh, Cistus

Base: Labdanum, Vanilla, Antique Benzoin, Australian Sandalwood, Pine Tree Moss, Patchouli, Coumarin, Natural Castoreum Tincture

The fragrance is also accompanied by a music and video art collaboration, music by perfumer John Biebel, and video art by Taras Merenkov. You can watch the video below.

Gümüş - Perfume by John Biebel of January Scent Project, Music by John Biebel, Video Art by Taras Merenkov, Created November 2022, fragrance Release December 2022, visit www.januaryscent.com

Please watch for more info in the coming weeks about Gümüş.